Skin Cycling Routine for Acne Prone Skin: How To Transform Your Complexion

Fighting back against acne has been a constant battle for me that began in the sixth grade. When I was younger, I’d dream about the days when I would be done with puberty. I assumed (incorrectly) that this is when my acne would finally calm down.  Little did I know, I’d still be struggling with acne on a daily basis well into my mid 20’s. 

Finally, After Hunting, Searching, And Experimenting With Skincare Products For Years, I Stumbled Across This Skin Cycling Routine Which Has Been A Complete Game Changer

Skin cycling is a term that was first coined by NYC dermatologist, Dr. Whitney Bowe.  This can include a multitude of different types of active compounds, including chemical exfoliants, retinoids, and Vitamin C.  

“Skin Cycling is a deliberate and strategic way to bring your nighttime skincare routine to the next level,”

Dr. Whitney Bowe, NYC Dermatologist

The Skin Cycling Routine Is A Method That Is Four Nights Long And Repeats Continually

Every night, you use gentle hydrating products while alternating active ingredients (or skipping them altogether) depending on where you are in the cycle.  The first night is focused on chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid or glycolic acid.  Night number two is all about retinol, a derivative of vitamin A.  Nights three and four are focused on skin barrier recovery. I utilize gentle hydrating products to help skin recuperate from recent active ingredients, and repair the skin barrier.  

When Word Got Out About Dr.Bowe’s Revolutionary Skincare Method, The Internet Seemed To Blow Up With Everything Related To Skin Cycling Routines

Despite seeing raving reviews online from people of different skin types, I was very skeptical that skin cycling would actually be beneficial for me.  I was so defeated from years of struggling and spending hundreds on products that claimed to be miracle workers. I had begun to believe that there wasn’t anything that would help my skin and thought that this was just something I was stuck to deal with for the rest of my days. 

But… I couldn’t help but be curious about it.  Could this actually help someone with skin like mine?  Wouldn’t my skin freak out if I gave it two full nights off from anti-acne products? If I tried it, would my skin break out like never before?  I debated and debated with myself until I finally gave in and decided to try out this new fad that tons of people claim has healed their acne, while hydrating and plumping skin.

I Set Out Searching For The Right Products To Use For Skin Cycling For Acne, Starting Off With Incorporating Double Cleansing Into My Daily Routine

If you haven’t tried double cleansing yet, it’s a routine that uses an oil cleanser to strip away sunscreen, makeup, and dirt, followed by using a gentle cleanser to wash away the rest of the oil and dirt.  It took a ton of research before I felt comfortable with trying out the double cleansing method.  Having lived with acne for most of my life, I’d become accustomed to looking for “oil-free” products. Simply because it’s what I saw on labels of products targeted towards fighting acne.  I also have the type of skin that by the afternoon, my face is glistening with excess oil. So, putting on MORE oil seemed quite counter-intuitive. 

So, I began to research and learned as much as I possibly could about oil cleansing.

Turns Out, It Is Possible To Oil Cleanse Even If You Struggle With Acne-Prone Skin

You just have to be a bit more diligent about checking the ingredients of your skincare products!

Oil cleansing works by adhering to oil-based compounds on your skin, including makeup, sunscreen, dirt, and sebum. It helps to dissolve and loosen the oil from your pores and brings it up to the surface of the skin for easier removal of oil from clogged pores without harsh chemicals and irritation to the skin.

– Curology

I Wasn’t Comfortable With Trying Oil Cleansing Until I Understood That It Helped Pull Oil Out Of the Skin

Especially since my skin produces enough oil on its own, I didn’t need to be adding any more! Honestly, it kinda blew my mind piecing this together.  Did this mean that there was actually something that could bring excess oil up and out of my pores? While also avoiding leaving my face stinging, red, and irritated?!  Figuring that I didn’t really have anything to lose, I made the leap and got my first oil cleanser – this gentle day dissolve balm from Versed. It has become a staple in my routine! I use it every evening before using my gentle cleanser. I’ve found that it leaves my skin looking radiant and glowy without feeling oily or tacky. It cleans my skin more efficiently without any irritation, leaving my skin feeling hydrated and glowing.

I’ve been using a skin cycling routine ever since and haven’t looked back to my old way of doing skincare.  Although, with my acne-prone skin, I had to make a few adjustments to the standard skin cycling layout to find what worked best for me.  I would highly encourage doing this and making adjustments based on what works best for your skin’s needs, and your skincare goals.  Scroll down to see an overview of my skin cycling routine, and what has worked best for my acne-prone skin.  

My Morning Routine for Skin Cycling

I like to keep my mornings a little bit more simple than my evenings.  This is especially helpful on days when I’m running behind or I’ve hit the snooze button a few too many times and have left myself almost no time to get ready for the day before having to leave.  

I start off by using this La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser.  This face wash has a soft, milky texture that doesn’t lather or foam, which did take me a bit of time to get used to.  Now that I’ve gotten used to it, I can’t imagine going back to harsh foaming cleansers that leave my face feeling tight and dry afterward.  This LRP facewash contains ceramides, glycerin, thermal water with antioxidant properties, and niacinamide.  These compounds work together to maintain a healthy moisture barrier, balance the skin’s PH level, and strip away excess dirt and oil.  

If You Do Prefer A Foaming Cleanser, There Are Tons Of Options Out There Including Some That I’ve Added Below For You To Check Out!

Next, I move on to my daytime serums.  I have experimented with many different ones, and do adjust what I use sometimes depending on if my skin is feeling extra sensitive that day, or if I’m getting close to my period and wake up with a plethora of new pimples. 

Despite being such a powerhouse, finding a vitamin C that doesn’t cause a breakout has taken a lot of trial and error.  My current favorite is this Naturium Vitamin C Super Serum Plus.  It also includes hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and salicylic acid to hydrate the skin, shrink pores, and exfoliate dead skin cells while putting on your daily Vitamin C.  

If you have acne-prone skin, you may need to pay extra attention to the ingredients in your Vitamin C serum, as it’s an ingredient that is known to be a bit more common to have breakouts from if you suffer from acne. 

Here Are Some Top-Rated Vitamin C Products For Sensitive Skin To Incorporate Into Your Routine

• Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Brightening Treatment Serum
• Paula’s Choice C15 Vitamin C Super Booster
• Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHA (includes chemical exfoliants to fight acne while brightening at the same time)
• Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

On most days, I use a light moisturizer after applying my Vitamin C in the morning.  For YEARS, this CeraVe PM Moisturizing Facial Lotion has been a constant in my skincare routine, even when I change up all my other products.  It’s one of the first products that I was able to find that my acneic skin happily tolerated.  It’s a lightweight texture that leaves the skin feeling hydrated, breathable, and non-greasy.  This lotion includes niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and three essential ceramides, and is oil-free and non-comedogenic. 

Other Popular Options For Moisturizers Suited For Acne-Prone Skin Include:

• CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion (Similar to the PM Lotion but with a thicker texture)
• Tula Breakout Star Acne Moisturizer (Fights acne while hydrating the skin. Be cautious if you’re using other active ingredients!)
• The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid Serum
• Innisfree Green Tea Hydrating Moisturizer

Most Importantly, You NEED To Be Using Sunscreen Daily As Part of Your Morning Skincare Routine.

No matter what! It doesn’t matter if you’re staying at home for the day or going galavanting, you always need to be wearing sunscreen. 

When It Comes To Sunscreen, I Love Formulas That Leave My Skin Feeling Non-Greasy, Breathable, & Ideally Like I’m Not Even Wearing Anything!

I also love a sunscreen with a little bit of a tint to it, that way I am protecting my skin and avoiding pore-clogging ingredients in makeup all in one step! It’s a time saver for sure on busy mornings and since it helps to simplify my morning routine, it also helps to ensure that I never forget to lather on my morning sun protection!

My favorite is the Supergoop Glowscreen SPF 40 Sunscreen with Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide.  It rubs on extremely easily, feels lightweight almost like a moisturizer, and doesn’t leave any type of white cast that your classic sunscreen leaves.  It also gives me a little bit of a glow that’s super subtle and perfect for day-to-day! Don’t forget to rub some sunscreen onto your neck, chest, and hands every day to prevent fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots on areas of skin that are commonly exposed to the sun.  

Other sunscreen options include:

• Supergoop 100% Mineral (Re)setting Powder – AMAZING for reapplication!! A must-have to keep in your purse or car for quick and easy sun protection on the go.
• Innisfree Daily UV Defense Invisible Broad Spectrum SPF 36 Sunscreen
• First Aid Beauty Mineral Sunscreen Zinc Oxide Broad Spectrum SPF 30
• La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Sunscreen

Now, let’s move into the exciting part of the skin cycling routine; alternating active ingredients in the evening to reduce irritation, fight acne, and fortify a healthy moisture barrier. 

Skin Cycling Routine Night #1:

While both are great to use, if you have acne you’re probably going to want to use Salicylic Acid, which is oil soluble and can penetrate into the pores to break down dirt and grime.  Glycolic acid, on the other hand, is better suited for dry skin or if you’re just breaking into the world of chemical exfoliation.  Glycolic acid helps to break down the glue that holds together skin cells on the top layer and slough them off.  Since it doesn’t penetrate as deep into the skin it’s a great active ingredient to use when starting off with chemical exfoliators! 

My go-to Glycolic acid to use on nights when my skin is feeling a little more sensitive and I want to use something a bit gentler than Salicylic Acid is this Glycolic Acid toner from The Ordinary.  Though on the majority of my chemical exfoliating nights, I use a Salicylic Acid to help break down blackheads and dirt stuck in the pores of my oily, acne-prone skin. 

Of All The Salicylic Acid Products That I’ve Tried, This Face Mask Is One Of My All-Time Favorites

One of my all-time favorite SA products that I have been using for years is this SA face mask from The Ordinary.  The mask is a bit thick and dries quickly as you apply it so it can be a bit difficult to master getting a consistent layer of product without smudging any of the drying product and leaving some skin uncovered.  After applying, leave it on for NO MORE than ten minutes, and rinse off.  I typically set a timer for seven or eight minutes to ensure that it is all rinsed off my face by the ten-minute mark.  Leaving it on longer can irritate your moisture barrier, leaving you prone to a breakout and dry, peeling skin. 

Before applying my SA mask, I like to start off with a gentle micellar water or an oil cleanse.  Then, I thoroughly rinse my skin to ensure all oil is off, pat the skin dry with a clean towel, and follow up with a gentle cleanser to help wash away any leftover dirt. After allowing my skin to dry completely, I use dry hands to begin applying the mask.  After rinsing it off, I like to follow with a hyaluronic acid serum and a gentle moisturizer. 

That’s It For Your Exfoliation Night!

If you aren’t a fan of face masks, there are SO many awesome chemical exfoliant options out there in different forms, including face wash, serums, and moisturizers so that you can find what works best for your individual skin type! 

Other options include:

• Glow Recipe PHA + BHA Watermelon Toner (Best chemical exfoliator for beginners, it gently exfoliates dead skin cells and tightens pores while hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps skin, leaving you feeling fresh and glowy)
• Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (Top Rated & Most Loved, this product works hard to unclog pores, breaking down acne before it has a chance to surface while green tea soothes redness and irritation)

Skin Cycling Routine Night #2:

It’s been proven time and time again to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, treat acne, AND fight off free radicals! Literally, the skincare ingredient that does it all. Retinol is derived from Vitamin A and works by increasing the rate that your skin cells turn over. 

The Increase In Cell Turnover Leads To An Increase In The Exfoliation of Dead Skin Cells & Unclogging Pores

“One of the biggest rumors about retinol is that it is merely an extra-strong exfoliator. However, retinol works by enhancing collagen production and increasing the rate that the epidermal layer turns over and regenerates. As the epidermal layer regenerates, dead cells on the outer layer of the skin can flake, causing this common misconception. However, retinol is restoring the skin versus exfoliating it.“

-Dr. Zoe Rafaat, MD

A stronger version of retinol is called retinoids, which are not available to buy over the counter and must be prescribed.  This includes Tretinoin, which has been blowing up in popularity and spreading across the internet like wildfire! If you haven’t used retinol before, it’s probably best to start off with an OTC retinol option before talking to your doctor about retinoids. 

Thankfully, There Are A Ton Of Amazing Over-The-Counter Retinol Options To Choose From!

My all-time favorite that I have been using for years (and probably won’t be changing anytime soon) is Differin adapalene gel.  It was first recommended to me by my dermatologist in 2016 after adapalene gel was approved to be sold OTC and has been a staple in my skincare routine ever since.  I’ve also tried the Acne Free brand’s adapalene gel and in my opinion, it is an AMAZING budget dupe option of the Differin brand! 

On the retinol nights of my skin cycling routine, I start off with double cleansing by using an oil cleanser first and then following up with a gentle cleanser to avoid any potential irritation. I then apply my hyaluronic acid serum, and once that dries I move on to applying my retinol. It’s very important to note that you should only be using a pea-sized amount of retinol! Anything more is non-beneficial to your skin and potentially irritating. I let my retinol dry for a few minutes, then gently pat some gentle moisturizer on my skin.

Other retinol options that you can find over the counter include:

• CeraVe Retinol Serum for Post-Acne Marks and Skin Texture
• Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment Cream With Peptides, Vitamin C & Licorice Extract
• Good Molecules Gentle Retinol Cream

Skin Cycling Routine Night #3:

Through trial and error, I’ve found that my skin needs a bit more support in the acne department and does better when I don’t skip active ingredients for more than one night.  I totally would recommend trying out the two-day barrier repair routine and seeing how your skin personally feels! If you have combination skin or dry skin, you should start off by dedicating two nights to barrier repair and hydration.

Even though my skin needs more active ingredients to keep the acne at bay, taking a day away from them and focusing on hydration has been so beneficial to my skin health, which the younger me would have never expected! Especially after years of buying skincare products that focus on being “oil-free”, I had been conditioned to think that I needed the strongest chemicals to eviscerate my acne. 

Overuse of Drying Products Can Lead To A Damaged Moisture Barrier

This makes it easier for dirt to enter your pores as your skin’s protective layer has been diminished.  A damaged barrier also leads to an increase in dead skin cells and that tight, peeling “snakeskin” feeling, which puts your skin at risk of clogging up with dead skin cells as they flake off from the dryness.    

I like to start off with my typical oil cleanse and gentle cleanser on my hydration nights.  Then, I move on to this CosRX snail mucin that I have become obsessed with!  It has a kinda sticky, tacky feel to it that is common with popular Korean Beauty products.  I dispense a pump into my palm, and gently rub my hands together then pat gently onto my face, neck, and chest.  I worried that it would be too heavy for my oily, acne-prone skin. After a few uses, I noticed that I hadn’t broken out once from it! It leaves my skin feeling hydrated, but not oily to the touch!

Leaving Me With The Glass Skin Glow That I’ve Always Dreamed Of!

I then follow up with a hyaluronic acid serum and pat that gently onto my face, then follow up with a gentle moisturizer.  If my skin feels extra dry or sensitive, I use Vaseline around areas where my skin is sensitive for extra skin barrier protection.

Other great products to incorporate into your routine on barrier repair nights:

• Cocokind Ceramide Repair Serum
• SoonJung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream (Great if you have sensitive skin!)
• KraveBeauty Great Barrier Relief Serum
• CosRx Propolis Ampoule Glow Boosting Serum

Wondering If You Should Start Following A Skin Cycling Routine?

The skin cycling routine I’ve shared has been my savior in combating acne and rejuvenating my complexion. However, it’s important to remember that what worked for me might not yield the same results for everyone. Our skin is as unique as we are, requiring a personalized approach. I encourage everyone to be patient, observant, and mindful when implementing new skincare routines. It’s not an overnight process, but the results, as seen in my own journey, can be life-changing. As always, seek professional advice for persistent skin concerns. Your skin is a reflection of your overall health, and it deserves the utmost care. I hope my experiences inspire and guide you in your own skincare journey.

*Disclosure: I only recommend products that I would use myself, and all opinions expressed here are my own.  This post may contain affiliate links and I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you when you make a purchase from one of the links.  You can read my full disclaimer here. *

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